The view of Dhankar Monastery was awesome from the point I was watching it from over the cliff. Miles below was the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers, flowing evidently in full fury on that summer day in June. However, I had exerted myself to the point that I had no energy left in me. All the myths that I had regarding my physical fitness were gone in a second! Welcome to Dhankar, was all my friend from Kaza said, smiling, as it was I who had pushed him too to climb the cliff to get a towering view of Dhankar Monastery.
Trek to Dhankar Village
Since I had been to Kaza on a previous occasion, I knew that Tabo, some 40 km before Kaza, would be the best place to disembark for continuing the journey to Dhankar Monastery. Being a budget traveler, I often look for the cheapest option and found out that a Himachal Road Transport Corporation bus goes till Shicilling. I knew that some generous villager would offer me a lift from Shicilling to Dhankar Village.
The bus, which arrived by 10:30 in the morning, had few passengers, and after waiting for a while, it left for Kaza via Shicilling.
Shicilling is a small village that has some shops and a homestay. You can consider staying here too. Since I wished to see Dhankar Monastery at the earliest, the only option was to walk the road until I could get a lift.
The day was bright and sunny, and since it was already mid of the day, the sun was harsh. This was after years that I regretted not using the sunscreen, which I had hurriedly left at Tabo. The last drops of water in my water bottle were drying up, and for a while, I thought I had taken the wrong decision to trek up to Dhankar Gompa, or the Dhankar Monastery.
Just before the feeling that I was lost in a desert could get into my mind, I found some locals walking down happily. They gave me a water bottle and some sattu too. Refreshed and energized by their reaffirmation that Dhankar Monastery was just around the corner, I gathered all the energy. In my inner consciousness, I knew that they said this to boost me up, and Dhankar Monastery was still a mountain away!
Thankfully, the road was paved and did not feel that uncomfortable, similar to a situation when one has to climb up a mountain. A couple of hours of walking, and I was finally in Dhankar village. The first view of Dhankar Monastery that I had from around one kilometer away is still fresh in my mind even today and is difficult to pen down in words.
Hanging Cliff Homestay Dhankar
The second-best thing I wanted in Dhankar village was a place to stay in comfort. A conversation with a villager guided me to the Hanging Cliff homestay in the village. True to its name, this homestay was on a cliff. What this meant was that I was to get a 360-degree view of Dhankar village and Dhankar Gompa. The homestay had 5 rooms and an English and dry toilet, which is primarily put to use in winters.
Image courtesy: neelstoria
Dolma Cherring, the ever-smiling host, has been running it for the last 12 years. For Rs 950, which included breakfast and dinner, this definitely seems to be the best bet. You can enjoy some local food here, including noodles and thukpa, too.
Well, after reaching here at 5:00 PM, it was time to relax a while, sip some tea, and listen to tales of other guests who had managed to reach here.
Post the dinner, it was time to hit the bed and call it a day!
Early Morning to Dhankar Monastery
The next morning, my friend from Kaza arrived too, and by 8:00 AM, we were off to Dhankar Monastery. A special fact about Dhankar Gompa is that it is also around 1000 years old, like the Tabo Monastery.
However, the fact that amazes all is how such a massive monastery could be built on a cliff. The way Dhankar Monastery has been designed resembles more of a fort. I am still at a loss for words as to why this had to be done in a peaceful place like a monastery.
Floor by floor, the Dhankar monastery seems to rise to infinity. On the way, you would be amazed to see the thangkas that adorn its different walls. The chief monk who resides on the top floor was a welcoming and happy-go-lucky man who offered us butter tea! What a great place to have a cup of butter tea, sipping which you feel close to Lhasa.
Another unique attraction of this room was a stuffed hanging ram and different emojis that were pasted on it. Unique and unwanted, it seemed to me at this place; however, I did not wish to trouble the head monk with a silly question, so I ignored it altogether.
The Dhankar village, with all its shades of yellow and greens of pea fields, looks awesome from the towering height of Dhankar Monastery, and you can end up spending hours here if you have an interest in Tibetan Buddhism.
The lamas at the Dhankar Monastery also told me that this gompa has been an important center for Buddhist learning and is from the Gelugpa Order of Tibetan Buddhism. Another unique attraction here is a statue of Vairocana, or the meditating Buddha. Not to forget the murals and thangkas, which make it truly unique and distinct.
Exploring the Dhankar Fort
Back at the homestay after visiting the Dhankar Monastery, I was contemplating returning back when my friend suggested that we should explore the Dhankar Fort and Dhankar Lake too, or else I would miss these marvels forever. What this meant was that the stay had to be extended by a day at Dhankar village. Any person with a judicious mind would have done so, and so did I.
Dhankar Fort, I found out, was the power center in this region at one point, which also inclined me to look for it. I am saying ‘look for it’ because currently it is only an abandoned mud and brick structure with only a staircase remaining evident. You can still go to the terrace of this fort and feel on top of the world, as it offers a much higher view of Dhankar village than from the monastery itself.
Night at Dhankar Village
There was no electricity that night in Dhankar village. That day, the power was off, or the village did not have electricity as such. I am unsure. Neither did I ask my host. The food was delicious and freshly cooked. Rice, chapatis, and some local vegetables made my day that night, as I was hungry.
Image Courtesy: Wikimedia commons
Trek to Dhankar Lake
The next day, I decided to hike to Dhankar Lake. The trail began from Dhankar Monastery, and the climb, which seemed endless to me, took half an hour until the ascent vanished all of a sudden. The trail also disappeared, and the path was only some pebbles, which were the guide to the lake.
When I turned my head back, the Dhankar Monastery seemed downhill. A ridge appeared out of nowhere, and I thought that the Dhankar Lake was around. However, this is a trap; before you reach the lake, at least four such ridges will appear.
After crossing 3-4 such ridges, a flat ground appears, which has thorny bushes. Crossing this flat ground, suddenly I found the Dhankar Lake in front of me. Crystal clear waters, changing colors as the day passed by, the lake was serene enough to offer me solace after an hour’s climb. The backdrop of the lake is unique and has snow-covered peaks, which makes this a worthwhile moment!
I sat at the Dhankar Lake for an hour and trekked back with my friend. It took us around half an hour to get back to Dhankar village.
Thankfully, my friend could arrange for a taxi, and we both returned to Kaza the same evening. Dhankar village and Dhankar Monastery have left an imprint in my mind so deep that I would wish to visit it again someday, perhaps to relive that moment of solitude and happiness that I found chatting with young lamas at Dhankar Monastery who are miles apart from technology and modernity and yet are far ahead of all of us.
FAQs
What is the best time to visit the Dhankar monastery?
As such, the best time to visit Dhankar village is from April to September, as the weather is pleasant during these months. The serene ambiance of the Dhankar Monastery also looks alluring during these months.
How can we reach Dhankar village?
If you are coming from Kaza, the Kaza-Peo bus, which starts at 7:30 AM, will bring you to Sichling in an hour. From Sichling, you may have to walk all the way if you are not able to find a lift. Alternatively, if you are coming from the Sumdo side, the Sumdo-Kaza bus, which reaches Tabo, can bring you here at 9:30 AM. Another bus reaches Tabo at 10:30 AM, and you can also consider travelling in it to Sichling and hiking further up.
What can we do in Dhankar village?
Besides exploring the Dhankar village, you can visit the 1000-year-old (approx.) Dhankar Monastery and hike to Dhankar Lake.
Where to stay in Dhankar?
Dhankar has 3-4 homestays, including the Hanging Cliff Homestay. Choose any one of these according to your preference. Rates are almost the same in all of these.
Featured image : unsplash
