Southeastern region of Zanskar valley, Lungnak is home to the remarkable Phugtal Monastery. This monastery is one of the most searched and visited monasteries in this remote region. Phugtal monastery trek is thus one of the most sought-after locations for both local and international trekkers.
Phugtal Monastery in Zanskar Valley
Ladakh itself is remote, and Phugtal Monastery in Zanskar Valley is indeed isolated. The location of Phugtal monastery is so serene, and anyone who desires to be embodied in spiritual learning will find it alike to heaven.
In the bygone era, monks used to meditate at Phugtal monastery in solitude. Nothing much has changed even today, apart from the fact that a large number of trekkers and travellers come here every year now.
The last few kilometres of the Phugtal Gompa trek will take you through sandstone cliffs. It has to be mentioned here that the Phugtal monastery trek is quite different from what other regions of Ladakh offer. You would be on kilometres of unpaved stretch, making you feel lodging for home, if you are not the one who likes solitude.
In other words, you can say that anyone who lives in the rugged region of the Phugtal monastery is at odds with nature. Modernity is virtually non-existent here and access to mobile phone is only a dream presently. Yet, those in love with nature will enjoy the Phugtal gompa trek.
Why To Go On Phugtal Gompa Trek
If you are someone who is seeking spiritual guidance, are a wanderer or monk, Phugtal monastery is the place to be. Like other spiritual seekers, I always aspired to visit this monastery tucked away in the remoteness of Zanskar.
Having thought of it for many years, it was one fine day that I decided to venture to Phugtal Monastery. The first view of it is so mesmerizing that to describe it in words is simply not possible.
Phugtal As I Saw It
The most special fact about Phugtal monastery is that it is on the cliff of a gorge which is on the banks of Lingti- Tsarap River. This river further merges with the Lungnak river at Purne as it goes towards Padum.
When I looked at the gompa from far away, it seemed like a honeycomb which was perched on high ground. Buddhist teachers lived in this high-perched Phugtal monastery centuries ago to connect with nature and meditate in solitude.
A serene calmness engulfs you, as it did to me when we walked towards this monastery. All your worries seem to be left behind when the gompa appears in front of you.
You feel humble in front of such a natural architectural marvel and the feeling is such that you would aspire to live in this solitude for a long period, even if are short of time. Such is the beauty and elegance of Phugtal monastery, as I felt it years ago!
Image Courtesy: Sandeepachetan
Phugtal Monastery History
The affiliation of Phugtal monastery is with the Gelugpa tradition, which is one of the four major schools of Tibetan Buddhism. This gompa was founded in the early 15th century by Jangsem Sherpa. The cave on which this Phugtal monastery was established is said to be 2500 years old.
It is said that teachings on dharma were imparted by three brothers named Dangsong, Pun, and Sum at this monastery who were blessed with supernatural powers. When Jangsem Sherpa arrived here, these three brothers left the supreme place for him and left. Zangpo, too, had supernatural powers and made a spring appear here for water, a tree for cover. The size of the cave also increased, which later led to the Phugtal monastery coming up at this site.
An unknown fact about Phugtal is that this monastery was unknown to the outside world till the 19th century. It was the Hungarian explorer Alexander De Coros who visited this gompa and stayed here during winters.
Even centuries down the line nothing much has changed and as I saw down from the heights of Phugtal monastery into the Lingti- Tsarap River, time stood still and it seemed I had been transformed into the bygone era, for there is nothing new in this area, except for occasional vehicles that line up few kilometres before the monastery bringing up travellers and trekkers from all across the world.
Phugtal Gompa Trek
Phugtal Monastery trek commences from the Purne village in Zanskar. A motorable road can also be taken to 2 Km near the Gompa if you are accompanied by an experienced driver. The real trek begins from the point where the road ends, as one has to walk past the Lingti-Tsarap River.
For most of the Phugtal gompa trek, the Lingti-Tsarap River flows alongside, with the altitude increasing with time. The distance of the trek is around 7-8 Km, and the final ascent of 2 Km is on a high cliff and you have to be medically and physically fit to rise to this challenge.
How to Reach Phugtal Gompa
There are two routes to reach the Phugtal gompa. One of these is from Padum.
On day 1 of the journey, a 4–5-hour drive (65 km) will take you to Purne. You can stay overnight at Purne. Enjoy your stay in the winterland of Purne. On day 2, you have to start from Purne at 6:00 AM A 2.5 Km drive will take you to the last point from where the trek begins. One to one and a half hour trek will take you to Phugtal Monastery. You can stay at the monastery in case you wish to explore it in detail or return to Purne by evening.
The other route is through Manali in Himachal Pradesh. Either way, you will have to make a stopover at Purne.
There are two guest houses in Purne that charge 1000-1200 per day and will provide you comfortable stay.
Zanskar valley is once in lifetime exploration place. Access to Zanskar is now quite easy compared to what it was in early 2000’s. Take advantage of this fact and plan a visit to Phugtal Monastery. This could be a life-changing moment for you indeed!
Featured image: Tour My India
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